Beet Leaves Turning Red (Why And What To Do)
Beets are simple to grow and don’t need any special attention. However, there are challenges to overcome during the growing process.
The state of the leaf is a good indication of the health and development of the vegetable as a whole.
Mistakes in care cause the leaves to dry out, change color, and become spotted.
Here, we’ll learn why beet leaves turn red and what you can do about it.
Causes of Beet Leaves Turning Red

The reddening of beet leaves is not always indicative of poor health. There are some beet varieties that have a reddish tint to their leaves.
The unusual color of the foliage is the norm in this instance.
This information is provided on the seed package by the manufacturer, so be sure to read it all before you plant your seeds!
If the chosen variety lacks such a distinguishing feature, the redness of the leaves indicates a lack of care or beet plant disease. This is a problem for a number of reasons.
Sodium Levels In The Soil Are Too Low
Normal soil sodium content is critical for plant growth and development in the early stages.
Young beet sprouts are particularly good at absorbing sodium, calcium, and magnesium from the soil. Lack of sodium has a negative impact on plant development because it prevents plants from absorbing enough phosphorus and nitrogen.
Sodium helps to increase leaf growth and enzymatic activity while also helping root crops store more sugar.
Potassium And Phosphorus Deficiency In Soil
A deficiency in potassium and phosphorus can also cause beet leaves to turn red.
If the edges of the beet leaves have turned a dark red, the soil is deficient in potassium.
Beet red necrosis is another name for this phenomenon. The leaves curl and wither when there is a severe potassium deficiency.
Initially, phosphorus deficiency leaves are dark green, but they quickly turn red due to a lack of nutrients.
Increased Soil Acidity
Soil acidity affects the beet crop’s growth. The most common reason beet plants develop red and purple leaves is because of increased acidity.
Beware of planting beets in soil that is too acidic; the plants develop ugly, small leaves and weak roots.
It’s easy to do a quick test at home to see how acidic the soil is.
There are specialized acidity analyzers available in gardening centers for this purpose (such as litmus paper, a pH meter, and soil composition analyzers).
You can use the traditional methods that include vinegar and hydrochloric acid.
These methods are less reliable, but they are faster and less expensive.
You need to use strong hydrochloric acid or vinegar to water down the garden soil clods before they are planted.
If moistened soil reacts with the formation of bubbles, it indicates that the soil is alkaline. No reaction means the substance is either neutral or acidic.
Solutions To The Issue

When the root vegetable’s leaves turn red, what should you do?
How can you tell if the vegetables are deficient in certain nutrients and what to use to remedy the situation by watering the beds?
Measures to combat red foliage can vary depending on what’s causing it to turn that color.
You can raise the sodium content of the soil rises in a straightforward manner.
Water your beet plants with a mixture of water and salt (200 g of table salt per 10 liters of water). Use 1-2 liters of solution per square meter of the seedbed.
Additionally, water directly to the leaves rather than to the roots, so that roots are not overwatered.
Growing a healthy root crop necessitates taking good care of the plants. Beds of beets require the removal of weeds as well as loosening, aeration, thinning, watering, and fertilization.
Getting Rid of Weeds and Loosening the Soil
Weeds are a serious problem when crops are young because of the damage they can do.
Beets grow slowly until they form a crown of 4-6 leaves. Weeds will prevent young plants from growing if they are not controlled.
Remove the weeds and loosen the top layer of soil at the same time. This procedure improves the air exchange in the soil’s top layer and helps the soil hold on to its moisture.
Thinning
There is no way to avoid thinning beet seeds because they are multiparous, which means that 2 to 4 plants grow from one seed.
Densely growing beet plants compete for resources, reducing root crop yield, size, and quality.
If you do not thin out the beets, the root system will be shallow and under-developed.
Advice: Replant the healthy plants that were removed from the bed during thinning into a different location. Beets have a high tolerance for transplants.
As soon as two full-sized leaves appear on young plants, it’s time to begin thinning.
Leave a space of 2-3 cm between each seedling in the row at this point.
Repeat the thinning process when the plants have developed a crown of 5-6 leaves. The plants are now spaced 4-6 cm apart.
At the beginning of August, the beets are thinning for the final time. This time, leave 8-10 cm of space between plants.
If you skip the thinning process according to the plan, the quantity and quality of the crop suffer.
The best time to perform the procedure is right after a good rain or a good sprinkler runoff.
Plants are easier to remove from moist soil, and transplanted plants will take root more easily in their new location.
Watering
The beet crop thrives in soil that is consistently moist, but not soggy.
During the hot summer months, beet beds are watered frequently and abundantly.
Vegetables require a lot of water at the start of their growth and during the active accumulation of fruit in mass.
Keep in mind that mulching the top layer of soil will help to keep the soil moist and help to keep it in good shape.
With this technique, you can water your plants less frequently and with less effort.
Reduce the watering in August, and completely stop 2-3 weeks before harvesting.
Consequently, more sugars are stored in the beets, making them more delicious.
Fertilizer Application
Fertilize beets when the young plants have 3-4 leaves. During the loosening process, apply dry fertilizer in the row spacing.
On average, 1 m2 requires 8 grams of potassium salt and 7 to 9 grams of ammonium nitrate to achieve the desired outcome.
Fertilizer is applied a second time just before the rows are closed.
Instead of using 10 grams of potassium fertilizer, we’re using 16-20 grams, along with 10-15 grams of nitrogen fertilizer.
Key Takeaways
The key to a successful beet crop is a strong, vibrant, healthy leafy green. If the tops of the plants change color, wither, or curl, this indicates that the roots are deficient in nutrients.
The increased acidity of the soil could also be a contributing factor. To avoid issues like red beet leaves, make sure to use proper fertilizer application techniques, such as liming the soil (if needed).